MIRACLES DO HAPPEN PART 4_TARAKESWAR.
Hi all.............Jai Taraknath (salutation to Lord Shiva).I promised to tell you about the miracle that is Tarakeswar. So I am going to tell you about the experiences I had in walking 36 Kilometres from Seoraphuli to Tarakeswar in the Hooghly district of West Bengal,India. Several times.Like about twelve to thirteen times.
Tarakeswar is the abode of Lord Shiva and is situated in the Hooghly district of West Bengal,India.Like all places of Hindu pilgrimage, Tarakeswar too has both a legend and a history associated with its origin; The place owes its name to Taraknath — the presiding deity of this place of pilgrimage. According to a popular legend, Lord Taraknath was hidden under the forest, from time immemorial. Covered with dense reeds and grass and surrounded on all sides by swampy lands the area remained inaccessible and uninhabitable for a long time.
About 5 km far away was Ramnagar, the capital of the Kshatriya king, Bishnudas. At the centre of the forest was a raised stone upon which the peasant women used to grind their paddy.Another legend has it that a washerman used to wash clothes on the stone. The continued grinding or washing made a depression on the stone which can be seen and felt even now.
Anyway the place began to be inhabited by playing children and peasant women who used to stroll there in their leisure hours,and was also used as the pasture for the king's cattle tended by his chief cowherd, Mukunda Ghosh,
For sometime, the cowherd had been worried at the mysterious behaviour of one of his cows named Kapila. Although she was a milch-cow, she had suddenly stopped giving milk. Keeping a watch Mukunda noticed one day that Kapila entered the forest with udders full of milk but came out after sometime with empty udders. Suspecting this to be a case of pilferage, he followed the cow one day into the forest and found to his utter surprise that she discharged
the milk spontaneously on the said stone.
Mukunda reported this incident to Bharamalla — the king's brother, who verified it himself. He took the stone to be an object of divine power and wanted to worship it. He also brought
this fact to the notice of king Bishnudas who decided to bring the holy stone to a selected place at Ramnagar and ordered his men accordingly, For twelve days, about a hundred Koras (earth cutting community) tried to dig out the stone but all in vain.There seemed to be no trace of its end. The king was both surprised and depressed at this mysterious happening and decided to build a temple around the stone and the legendary temple of Baba Taraknath (Father Shiva) became a place of pilgrimage.
The pilgrimage to Tarakeswar is mostly done in "Chaitra" which is the first month in the Tamil calendar and the last month of the Bengali calendar. Chaitra month coincides with mid March to April.But the maximum pilgrims visit Tarakeswar in "Sraban"month which coincides with mid July-August. I have visited Baba Taraknath in both Chaitra and Sraban.
The pilgrims take bath in the holy Ganges river and after decorating a bamboo pole called "Baak"(pronounced with a nasal tone).And they decorate the baaks with plastic and bronze Trishuls,(the weapon of Lord shiva).Also plenty of bronze bells are attached to the baak. The people who decorate the baak do heavy business from morning to night in these two months.
Some pilgrims carry Ganges water sealed in a single bronze or mud pitcher.Some carry two mud/bronze pitchers on both sides of the baak. There would be two big mud/bronze pitchers and two small pitchers for Baba loknath. And with wet clothes,on barefoot the pilgrimage begins on foot. A "gamcha"or a thin red towel is a must. Some start from Kalighat in Kolkata and walk 60 Kilometers to Tarakeswar. But commonly the pilgrims start from "Nemai tirtha ghat "in Seoraphuli and start walking from there.From there it is 36 Km to Tarakeswar.
All preparations are made to assist the pilgrims in their pilgrimage by local committees and clubs and the "para"(local area) boys.water is supplied,free food and tea is supplied by marwari societies. Tea stalls also sell tea and eatables.Bamboo structures are erected throughout the roads for keeping the baaks and resting.
The baaks are not supposed to touch earth once the journey has begun.Hence the bamboo supports.And while keeping the baak or changing from one shoulder to another,there is a "vidhi"(rule) that the baaks should not come in front of the body.And the mud pitchers have to be carefully carried especially when there is a huge crowd,since breaking of the pitcher is inauspicious.
I used to carry mud pitchers on either side of the baak and decorate my baak with plenty of trishuls and chiming bronze bells, and ofcourse flowers,mainly marigold strings and also other flowers.The bells made a nice sound when I carried them over the shoulders.And I used to save the decorated baak for my next trip.
After the pitchers are filled with only one full dip in the Ganges river,they are sealed with clay so that the water would stay intact for the whole distance.After sealing the pitchers thus,they are decorated with flowers and burning joss sticks(Agarbatthi) are stuck on the mud.And with chant of "Bhole baba par karega"the pilgrimage begins.
I studied for my medical degree in Kolkata. When I was doing my internship and house surgeon training,I got friendly with a staff nurse called Bithi. Once she told me that she was going to Tarakeswar on foot and asked me if I wanted to come? I was aghast at the idea of walking in wet clothes and barefoot and a distance of 36 Km! I told her that it was absolutely impossible on my part.Me who used slippers inside the house! And I forgot about the incident.
I applied for post graduate studies in Surgery.At that time we did not have to write entrance examinations.Entry was solely on merit basis.About twenty five thousand candidates had applied.I was working in a hospital in North Kolkata then.One evening someone told me my name was on the selection list .I could not believe it.The next day, I rushed to the center and found that my name really was in the list.I almost swooned with happiness.
And that happiness lasted for two days only.I was not allowed to pay the joining fees since I had committed a small mistake in filling up the forms.The last date was over and the dealing clerk was expecting bribes from me to allow me to pay my fees.My father told me "Do not even think of such things like bribe.You are my daughter and I expect you to believe in God and leave the rest to him.If it is not in your fate better forget about the post graduate studies and think of something else."
It occurred to me that he was right .But I was very upset. Suddenly I remembered Bithi and Tarakeswar. I decided that I will walk to Tarakeswar and pray to Baba Taraknath. I made a mannat (wish) to Baba Taraknath that I will walk to his temple and he must fulfill my wishes and get me admission in the post graduate course. My mother and other relatives tried to dissuade me.And the pilgrims I met also dissuaded me.The end of Sraban was nearing and there were only two days.And the roads were very bad due to heavy rains especially the last few Kilometers..I prayed to God.Suddenly all obstacles were cleared,I got two companions,my cousin Seetha and a nurse we called Bina di agreed to come with me.My mother agreed.My father who would never agree to send me alone anywhere,and he used come and drop me in examination halls, also agreed.
So new sarees and gamchas were bought, and the next day, we set off to Seoraphuli. From the station we went to Nemai Tirtha ghat (built up section of the shore of Ganges with steps etc.). We bought all essential things and decorated our baaks. Then we took a dip in the Ganges river with the baaks and simultaneously filled our pitchers.O my... that was a sight to watch.Then the pitchers were sealed with mud so the water will remain intact.And also decorated with fresh flowers.The baaks looked so beautiful.And then many joss sticks were stuck on the mud.The baaks looked beautiful.And by then it was twilight.And we had a long way to go in the night.
I was not accustomed to remaining in wet clothes and I have a tendency to develop severe cold and chest infection.But Baba Taraknath made me walk 36 Kilometers in wet clothes and barefoot.We set out on our pilgrimage. After 11 Kilometers ,we reached" Dakat Kali Bari "By that time we were tired and shivering and the rain was falling relentlessly.
There is an interesting tale about this Kali(mother goddess) temple.The dacoits or robbers were very fond of Ma Kali and worshipped her with a human sacrifice before going on a mission.Once Sri Sri ma ( Ma Sarada consort of Sri Ramakrishna ) was travelling that way in a palki (palanquin) .A palanquin is a boxed structure with either screens or doors in which ladies and kings used to travel in those days.It was borne by four to six servants.
The dacoits intercepted them and all the bearers ran away in fright.But Sarada Ma was calm and composed and spoke to them very sweetly and called them children.The dacoits saw something divine in her and saw their beloved goddess Kali in her.So they fed her and safely transported her to her destination.
This is a small sized temple with a huge statue of Ma kali (Goddess).Ma Kali is the roudra(angry) avtar of goddess Parvathi/Ma Shakthi ,the goddess of power and strength.Like in the Greek mythology we Indians also attribute a god/goddess with a particular power.So Ma Shakthi (meaning power) is the goddess of power and strength.
When we reached Dakat Kali Bari, we were wet, tired and shivering.It is said that on the pilgrimage it is better not to rest for a long time.The tired muscles give way and it is difficult to start on the journey again.And once sleep overcomes you ,a person can take even 4-5 days to complete the pilgrimage.So we forced ourselves to start again after having tea.
But every bit of difficulty and every bit of pain was worth our target to reach Tarakeswar. Way back then , there were no proper roads and we walked through narrow paths sometimes sloping down to ditches and ponds. In the dark.Some jatris(pilgrims) used to take torches with them..But we did not have torches with us.So added to the shivering and tiredness we had to walk in the dark.And since it was a highway,lorries used to come at high speed in both directions with horns blaring and head lights on to harass the pilgrims.But the pilgrims helped each other by shouting "stay on the edge of the road,there is a lorry coming .Do not go near the edge,there is a pond there,etc."
And the pilgrims especially young boys are very helpful and always give warning. They help ladies and elderly and are always on the alert.Thus we covered almost half the distance.And then we sat down to have tea.It was raining heavily.And we were wet and shivering.It was past midnight.Then ,my cousin and Bina di decided that they will travel the rest of the distance on a "Van",a cart like structure fitted with tyres and a Bicycle. I was shocked and afraid but I had to go on.I had made a promise to the god.
So Bina di told some boys sitting nearby to take care of me.I was more frightened then since she was asking absolute strangers to help me travel such a long distance in the dark and rain.But I prayed to god to help me and take me all the way to the temple.The boys were actually a godsend.They knew that I was frightened ,so they reduced their speed and travelled behind me and some of them in front of me. When I was so tired, and thought of taking a van myself, one of them used to come by my side and encourage me with the words " Bhole Baba par karega"
meaning Lord Shiva will help us cross all difficulties to achieve our target.And when I asked how far it is to Tarakeswar,they used to say "Oy dekha jai babar chooda"meaning you can see the dome of the temple in that direction.
The roads were in a very bad state due to the rains and lorry traffic in the worst way.The roads were broken in places and filled with sharp stones.Sometimes the whole stretch of road was filled with scattered stones.My feet were swollen and the stones hurt in the tender areas.There was no other option.If the whole road was filled with stones how can you avoid them?
I was almost giving up but Baba Taraknath had already decided to make me walk all the way.
Man is bound by god's will as I was.So I walked on to the chants of "Bhole baba par karega, Trishuldhari (the holder of Trident/Trishul which is weapon of Lord Shiva) shakthi dega"Lord shiva will give us the strength to complete our task.
In Srabon it was very crowded throughout the night too.But in Chaitra it has even happened that three of us ladies have walked with only two companions throughout the journey.That comes later on.So aided by those fine boys(god bless them,they must be older adults now, I sincerely pray that they have succeeded in life and are happy somewhere) I could reach Tarakeswar.
It is necessary to chant Baba's name ,otherwise you feel the difficulty more.It is that way on the road to Tarakeswar. Some times when you think the pitchers are weighing you down,when your back and shoulders are aching, you think of Baba and call out his name,as a miracle you would feel that some one is giving you support from behind.Your baak feels lighter.I do not know if you will believe this,but this has happened with me several times.I am a doctor,a scientific person, but there are some phenomenons in life which you can not explain.You can only experience them and thank god for his kindness.
In a mixed language of Bengali and Hindi the pigrims chant "Bhole bam,Tarak bam,Bhole baba par karega, Trishuldhari shakthi dega" and sometimes "Babar bari dhoor hai"meaning the abode of baba is far off.And others chant "Jana zaroor hai "meaning But we have to go.
Some angry young men shout "Babar pete maaro churi"meaning stick a knife in baba's abdomen and other nasty things.These young men drink "Baang", a sort of alcoholic substance.These boys walk fast for the first few miles and then lie down and sleep.These are the ones who take a longer time to reach the temple. I have even seen some of them go by a van to the temple.
So with very much difficulty ,I reached Lokenath mandir ,another temple of Lord Shiva in the early morning .All the trouble I faced seemed to be worth it.In the early morning,when sun was just coming out,the place looked like heaven and the temple shown with an extra ordinary brightness.In Lokenath we emptied the ganges water from two small pitchers placed over the large ones,over the Shiv ling ,the idolistic form of worship of Lord Shiva.
Then I started on the last lap of the pilgrimage-a distance of 2 Kilometers.The roads were more worse and they were crowded with jatris. In that crowd it was difficult to walk.Ultimately I found my companions and we proceed to the temple in a long queue.My cousin and Bina di had to support me on both sides.My feet were swollen and very painful,but I kept chanting Baba's name. Moving slowly in the queue was a real nightmare.But ultimately we reached the temple and bathed the "Shiv ling" Shiva idol, with Ganges water from our pitchers.My mannat/wish succeeded.
There is a huge hall named "Natmandir"in front of the temple.There the pilgrims who had come from far afar for mannats/wishes to cure incurable diseases,to clear all sorts of financial and domestic problems etc.They remain for days together chanting baba's name and fasting.I do not know but they must have benefited somehow.It is a pity to see the lean,haggard faces with dark circles under the eyes,looking towards the god with miraculous powers.
There is a huge pond called Dudh pukur ,in which pilgrims take a dip before approaching Lord Shiva.Bathing in the pond is supposed to be auspicious and fulfill the wishes of the pilgrim.When I approached Dudhpukur I found it very dirty and saw stool floating in the corners.So I avoided going near it.I had already taken bath in a factory wash room earlier on.
After the darshan we climbed onto a rickshaw and came to Tarakeswar station and boarded a train to Howrah.I slept soundly in the train.When we reached Howrah,we caught a taxi to our house.We were so tired ,me more than my cousin, we slept like a log throughout the day even without taking bath and meals.Next day after freshening up (My whole body and clothes were covered with mud) and having meals,I felt a bit better.But the tiredness and foot swelling vanished miraculously within two days.And I did not catch a cold or develop chest infection.Believe me Taraknath works magic on his pilgrims and protects them.I am a living example.Have faith and he helps.
The next day I got a letter asking me to pay the joining fees for the post graduate course.No bribe,no visiting the center over and over again .Baba just did it.This is a true incident in my life.So thanking god,I went and paid the fees and joined the Surgery post graduate course.And continued to have a successful surgical career.At this age,I am still doing surgery and thanking god for it.
After that I have gone on the pilgrimage several times, at least twelve to thirteen times.The second time,I went there it was chaitra. And I started late and could only start from Nemai Tirtha ghat at 10 P.M.We were three ladies.All the pilgrims had gone beforehand.But Baba saw to it that we had two male companions. A man whose bronze pitcher had broken,had to come back to the ghat with his companion.So we had company throughout the journey.But for the five of us the whole stretch was deserted.
The men were seeing the way with torches on.And I usually do not carry anything with me,not even a mobile phone.So we three ladies were walking as Baba took us.Suddenly the two men shouted,"Are you ok'.We replied "yes".Then they told us that the entire stretch of that portion of the road was covered with glass pieces due to maybe a lorry accident.We ladies were walking over the same stretch in darkness and Baba took us along smoothly.
And towards morning we met up with some pilgrims who had started earlier.
In the early morning, I had stopped for tea and was just getting up to walk on the road,when a fast lorry scattered sharp stones and one of the stones somehow pierced the sole of my swollen foot.It was bleeding and people started giving me advice to take a van and not go on foot.Advice is always free as you know.
But I declined and tore a piece from my "Gamcha/towel and tied it to my foot.But the pain was excruciate and the bleeding would not stop.But I started walking with blood coming out and wetting the mud road.Thankfully it stopped after some time.Somehow I made it to the last five Kilometers to the temple. Baba had saved me again.
There was a deep gash on the sole of my foot.The next day,my friend Sephali dressed my foot and asked me to take antibiotics. But I declined.The next day the wound was completely healed and there was only an almost unnoticeable line. I have never taken any sort of medicine either for pain and swelling or any other problem after visiting the holy shrine of Tarakeswar.It is really not needed. Baba treats,Baba cures.
The third time I walked to Tarakeswar, my first younger brother Hariharan Sahasranaman was with me. He was and still is a very strong bodied and strong willed person.So I had to try to keep up with him.Many a time I lagged behind,but my brother was always waiting for me to catch up.I was lucky to have his company on that trip.And it really did not seem that he was making the trek for the first time.May my beloved Taraknath bless him.
When You walk to Tarakeswar, you feel Baba is with you always.When you feel that the road is too bad and it is difficult to walk,the road becomes better immediately.If you feel that your back and shoulders are paining, you feel immediately that the baak has become lighter as if someone is supporting it from behind .I have experienced these and many more miracles on the road to Tarakeswar. Simply call out to him and chant his name and he comes to your aid.You feel and sense the presence of Baba throughout the journey.That is more important than actually seeing and worshipping Baba.
For a doctor like me,it seemed almost impossible that I could walk 36 Kilometers in wet clothes,barefoot and in the night.But it happened once I started to have faith in him. After some trips ,it became easier for me to cover that distance in a shorter time,say even 5-6 hours.The first time it took about 10 hours.Many times I have reached the temple before it opened and I was first in the line to see Baba.
Once or twice I had to pour my precious Ganges water in a "chunga" or pipe which led to the the "Shiv ling"the stone idol of Baba. Since it was difficult to manage the crowds this arrangement had been made.I used to feel dejected and the next week I would go again.And miraculously there would be no chunga and I would be able to worship the idol by myself.
So what you think in your mind, Baba hears and fulfills your wishes.It is not actually in the temple,you feel the presence of Baba as soon as you start your pilgrimage and you feel his presence throughout .He is with you,helping you and guiding you throughout.
ONLY YOU SHOULD HAVE FAITH. JAI BABA TARAKNATH.
About 5 km far away was Ramnagar, the capital of the Kshatriya king, Bishnudas. At the centre of the forest was a raised stone upon which the peasant women used to grind their paddy.Another legend has it that a washerman used to wash clothes on the stone. The continued grinding or washing made a depression on the stone which can be seen and felt even now.
Anyway the place began to be inhabited by playing children and peasant women who used to stroll there in their leisure hours,and was also used as the pasture for the king's cattle tended by his chief cowherd, Mukunda Ghosh,
For sometime, the cowherd had been worried at the mysterious behaviour of one of his cows named Kapila. Although she was a milch-cow, she had suddenly stopped giving milk. Keeping a watch Mukunda noticed one day that Kapila entered the forest with udders full of milk but came out after sometime with empty udders. Suspecting this to be a case of pilferage, he followed the cow one day into the forest and found to his utter surprise that she discharged
the milk spontaneously on the said stone.
Mukunda reported this incident to Bharamalla — the king's brother, who verified it himself. He took the stone to be an object of divine power and wanted to worship it. He also brought
this fact to the notice of king Bishnudas who decided to bring the holy stone to a selected place at Ramnagar and ordered his men accordingly, For twelve days, about a hundred Koras (earth cutting community) tried to dig out the stone but all in vain.There seemed to be no trace of its end. The king was both surprised and depressed at this mysterious happening and decided to build a temple around the stone and the legendary temple of Baba Taraknath (Father Shiva) became a place of pilgrimage.
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| BABA TARAKNATH |
The pilgrims take bath in the holy Ganges river and after decorating a bamboo pole called "Baak"(pronounced with a nasal tone).And they decorate the baaks with plastic and bronze Trishuls,(the weapon of Lord shiva).Also plenty of bronze bells are attached to the baak. The people who decorate the baak do heavy business from morning to night in these two months.
Some pilgrims carry Ganges water sealed in a single bronze or mud pitcher.Some carry two mud/bronze pitchers on both sides of the baak. There would be two big mud/bronze pitchers and two small pitchers for Baba loknath. And with wet clothes,on barefoot the pilgrimage begins on foot. A "gamcha"or a thin red towel is a must. Some start from Kalighat in Kolkata and walk 60 Kilometers to Tarakeswar. But commonly the pilgrims start from "Nemai tirtha ghat "in Seoraphuli and start walking from there.From there it is 36 Km to Tarakeswar.
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| Baaks decorated with trishuls and mud pitchers on both sides. |
The baaks are not supposed to touch earth once the journey has begun.Hence the bamboo supports.And while keeping the baak or changing from one shoulder to another,there is a "vidhi"(rule) that the baaks should not come in front of the body.And the mud pitchers have to be carefully carried especially when there is a huge crowd,since breaking of the pitcher is inauspicious.
I used to carry mud pitchers on either side of the baak and decorate my baak with plenty of trishuls and chiming bronze bells, and ofcourse flowers,mainly marigold strings and also other flowers.The bells made a nice sound when I carried them over the shoulders.And I used to save the decorated baak for my next trip.
After the pitchers are filled with only one full dip in the Ganges river,they are sealed with clay so that the water would stay intact for the whole distance.After sealing the pitchers thus,they are decorated with flowers and burning joss sticks(Agarbatthi) are stuck on the mud.And with chant of "Bhole baba par karega"the pilgrimage begins.
I studied for my medical degree in Kolkata. When I was doing my internship and house surgeon training,I got friendly with a staff nurse called Bithi. Once she told me that she was going to Tarakeswar on foot and asked me if I wanted to come? I was aghast at the idea of walking in wet clothes and barefoot and a distance of 36 Km! I told her that it was absolutely impossible on my part.Me who used slippers inside the house! And I forgot about the incident.
I applied for post graduate studies in Surgery.At that time we did not have to write entrance examinations.Entry was solely on merit basis.About twenty five thousand candidates had applied.I was working in a hospital in North Kolkata then.One evening someone told me my name was on the selection list .I could not believe it.The next day, I rushed to the center and found that my name really was in the list.I almost swooned with happiness.
And that happiness lasted for two days only.I was not allowed to pay the joining fees since I had committed a small mistake in filling up the forms.The last date was over and the dealing clerk was expecting bribes from me to allow me to pay my fees.My father told me "Do not even think of such things like bribe.You are my daughter and I expect you to believe in God and leave the rest to him.If it is not in your fate better forget about the post graduate studies and think of something else."
It occurred to me that he was right .But I was very upset. Suddenly I remembered Bithi and Tarakeswar. I decided that I will walk to Tarakeswar and pray to Baba Taraknath. I made a mannat (wish) to Baba Taraknath that I will walk to his temple and he must fulfill my wishes and get me admission in the post graduate course. My mother and other relatives tried to dissuade me.And the pilgrims I met also dissuaded me.The end of Sraban was nearing and there were only two days.And the roads were very bad due to heavy rains especially the last few Kilometers..I prayed to God.Suddenly all obstacles were cleared,I got two companions,my cousin Seetha and a nurse we called Bina di agreed to come with me.My mother agreed.My father who would never agree to send me alone anywhere,and he used come and drop me in examination halls, also agreed.
So new sarees and gamchas were bought, and the next day, we set off to Seoraphuli. From the station we went to Nemai Tirtha ghat (built up section of the shore of Ganges with steps etc.). We bought all essential things and decorated our baaks. Then we took a dip in the Ganges river with the baaks and simultaneously filled our pitchers.O my... that was a sight to watch.Then the pitchers were sealed with mud so the water will remain intact.And also decorated with fresh flowers.The baaks looked so beautiful.And then many joss sticks were stuck on the mud.The baaks looked beautiful.And by then it was twilight.And we had a long way to go in the night.
I was not accustomed to remaining in wet clothes and I have a tendency to develop severe cold and chest infection.But Baba Taraknath made me walk 36 Kilometers in wet clothes and barefoot.We set out on our pilgrimage. After 11 Kilometers ,we reached" Dakat Kali Bari "By that time we were tired and shivering and the rain was falling relentlessly.
There is an interesting tale about this Kali(mother goddess) temple.The dacoits or robbers were very fond of Ma Kali and worshipped her with a human sacrifice before going on a mission.Once Sri Sri ma ( Ma Sarada consort of Sri Ramakrishna ) was travelling that way in a palki (palanquin) .A palanquin is a boxed structure with either screens or doors in which ladies and kings used to travel in those days.It was borne by four to six servants.
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| SRI RAMKRISHNA THAKUR |
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| MA SARADA DEVI |
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| PALKI |
The dacoits intercepted them and all the bearers ran away in fright.But Sarada Ma was calm and composed and spoke to them very sweetly and called them children.The dacoits saw something divine in her and saw their beloved goddess Kali in her.So they fed her and safely transported her to her destination.
This is a small sized temple with a huge statue of Ma kali (Goddess).Ma Kali is the roudra(angry) avtar of goddess Parvathi/Ma Shakthi ,the goddess of power and strength.Like in the Greek mythology we Indians also attribute a god/goddess with a particular power.So Ma Shakthi (meaning power) is the goddess of power and strength.
When we reached Dakat Kali Bari, we were wet, tired and shivering.It is said that on the pilgrimage it is better not to rest for a long time.The tired muscles give way and it is difficult to start on the journey again.And once sleep overcomes you ,a person can take even 4-5 days to complete the pilgrimage.So we forced ourselves to start again after having tea.
But every bit of difficulty and every bit of pain was worth our target to reach Tarakeswar. Way back then , there were no proper roads and we walked through narrow paths sometimes sloping down to ditches and ponds. In the dark.Some jatris(pilgrims) used to take torches with them..But we did not have torches with us.So added to the shivering and tiredness we had to walk in the dark.And since it was a highway,lorries used to come at high speed in both directions with horns blaring and head lights on to harass the pilgrims.But the pilgrims helped each other by shouting "stay on the edge of the road,there is a lorry coming .Do not go near the edge,there is a pond there,etc."
And the pilgrims especially young boys are very helpful and always give warning. They help ladies and elderly and are always on the alert.Thus we covered almost half the distance.And then we sat down to have tea.It was raining heavily.And we were wet and shivering.It was past midnight.Then ,my cousin and Bina di decided that they will travel the rest of the distance on a "Van",a cart like structure fitted with tyres and a Bicycle. I was shocked and afraid but I had to go on.I had made a promise to the god.
So Bina di told some boys sitting nearby to take care of me.I was more frightened then since she was asking absolute strangers to help me travel such a long distance in the dark and rain.But I prayed to god to help me and take me all the way to the temple.The boys were actually a godsend.They knew that I was frightened ,so they reduced their speed and travelled behind me and some of them in front of me. When I was so tired, and thought of taking a van myself, one of them used to come by my side and encourage me with the words " Bhole Baba par karega"
meaning Lord Shiva will help us cross all difficulties to achieve our target.And when I asked how far it is to Tarakeswar,they used to say "Oy dekha jai babar chooda"meaning you can see the dome of the temple in that direction.
The roads were in a very bad state due to the rains and lorry traffic in the worst way.The roads were broken in places and filled with sharp stones.Sometimes the whole stretch of road was filled with scattered stones.My feet were swollen and the stones hurt in the tender areas.There was no other option.If the whole road was filled with stones how can you avoid them?
I was almost giving up but Baba Taraknath had already decided to make me walk all the way.
Man is bound by god's will as I was.So I walked on to the chants of "Bhole baba par karega, Trishuldhari (the holder of Trident/Trishul which is weapon of Lord Shiva) shakthi dega"Lord shiva will give us the strength to complete our task.
In Srabon it was very crowded throughout the night too.But in Chaitra it has even happened that three of us ladies have walked with only two companions throughout the journey.That comes later on.So aided by those fine boys(god bless them,they must be older adults now, I sincerely pray that they have succeeded in life and are happy somewhere) I could reach Tarakeswar.
It is necessary to chant Baba's name ,otherwise you feel the difficulty more.It is that way on the road to Tarakeswar. Some times when you think the pitchers are weighing you down,when your back and shoulders are aching, you think of Baba and call out his name,as a miracle you would feel that some one is giving you support from behind.Your baak feels lighter.I do not know if you will believe this,but this has happened with me several times.I am a doctor,a scientific person, but there are some phenomenons in life which you can not explain.You can only experience them and thank god for his kindness.
In a mixed language of Bengali and Hindi the pigrims chant "Bhole bam,Tarak bam,Bhole baba par karega, Trishuldhari shakthi dega" and sometimes "Babar bari dhoor hai"meaning the abode of baba is far off.And others chant "Jana zaroor hai "meaning But we have to go.
Some angry young men shout "Babar pete maaro churi"meaning stick a knife in baba's abdomen and other nasty things.These young men drink "Baang", a sort of alcoholic substance.These boys walk fast for the first few miles and then lie down and sleep.These are the ones who take a longer time to reach the temple. I have even seen some of them go by a van to the temple.
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| CYCLE VAN |
So with very much difficulty ,I reached Lokenath mandir ,another temple of Lord Shiva in the early morning .All the trouble I faced seemed to be worth it.In the early morning,when sun was just coming out,the place looked like heaven and the temple shown with an extra ordinary brightness.In Lokenath we emptied the ganges water from two small pitchers placed over the large ones,over the Shiv ling ,the idolistic form of worship of Lord Shiva.
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| LOKNATH TEMPLE |
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| Tarakeswar temple and Dudhpukur tank in front. |
There is a huge pond called Dudh pukur ,in which pilgrims take a dip before approaching Lord Shiva.Bathing in the pond is supposed to be auspicious and fulfill the wishes of the pilgrim.When I approached Dudhpukur I found it very dirty and saw stool floating in the corners.So I avoided going near it.I had already taken bath in a factory wash room earlier on.
After the darshan we climbed onto a rickshaw and came to Tarakeswar station and boarded a train to Howrah.I slept soundly in the train.When we reached Howrah,we caught a taxi to our house.We were so tired ,me more than my cousin, we slept like a log throughout the day even without taking bath and meals.Next day after freshening up (My whole body and clothes were covered with mud) and having meals,I felt a bit better.But the tiredness and foot swelling vanished miraculously within two days.And I did not catch a cold or develop chest infection.Believe me Taraknath works magic on his pilgrims and protects them.I am a living example.Have faith and he helps.
The next day I got a letter asking me to pay the joining fees for the post graduate course.No bribe,no visiting the center over and over again .Baba just did it.This is a true incident in my life.So thanking god,I went and paid the fees and joined the Surgery post graduate course.And continued to have a successful surgical career.At this age,I am still doing surgery and thanking god for it.
After that I have gone on the pilgrimage several times, at least twelve to thirteen times.The second time,I went there it was chaitra. And I started late and could only start from Nemai Tirtha ghat at 10 P.M.We were three ladies.All the pilgrims had gone beforehand.But Baba saw to it that we had two male companions. A man whose bronze pitcher had broken,had to come back to the ghat with his companion.So we had company throughout the journey.But for the five of us the whole stretch was deserted.
The men were seeing the way with torches on.And I usually do not carry anything with me,not even a mobile phone.So we three ladies were walking as Baba took us.Suddenly the two men shouted,"Are you ok'.We replied "yes".Then they told us that the entire stretch of that portion of the road was covered with glass pieces due to maybe a lorry accident.We ladies were walking over the same stretch in darkness and Baba took us along smoothly.
And towards morning we met up with some pilgrims who had started earlier.
In the early morning, I had stopped for tea and was just getting up to walk on the road,when a fast lorry scattered sharp stones and one of the stones somehow pierced the sole of my swollen foot.It was bleeding and people started giving me advice to take a van and not go on foot.Advice is always free as you know.
But I declined and tore a piece from my "Gamcha/towel and tied it to my foot.But the pain was excruciate and the bleeding would not stop.But I started walking with blood coming out and wetting the mud road.Thankfully it stopped after some time.Somehow I made it to the last five Kilometers to the temple. Baba had saved me again.
There was a deep gash on the sole of my foot.The next day,my friend Sephali dressed my foot and asked me to take antibiotics. But I declined.The next day the wound was completely healed and there was only an almost unnoticeable line. I have never taken any sort of medicine either for pain and swelling or any other problem after visiting the holy shrine of Tarakeswar.It is really not needed. Baba treats,Baba cures.
The third time I walked to Tarakeswar, my first younger brother Hariharan Sahasranaman was with me. He was and still is a very strong bodied and strong willed person.So I had to try to keep up with him.Many a time I lagged behind,but my brother was always waiting for me to catch up.I was lucky to have his company on that trip.And it really did not seem that he was making the trek for the first time.May my beloved Taraknath bless him.
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| MY BROTHER |
For a doctor like me,it seemed almost impossible that I could walk 36 Kilometers in wet clothes,barefoot and in the night.But it happened once I started to have faith in him. After some trips ,it became easier for me to cover that distance in a shorter time,say even 5-6 hours.The first time it took about 10 hours.Many times I have reached the temple before it opened and I was first in the line to see Baba.
Once or twice I had to pour my precious Ganges water in a "chunga" or pipe which led to the the "Shiv ling"the stone idol of Baba. Since it was difficult to manage the crowds this arrangement had been made.I used to feel dejected and the next week I would go again.And miraculously there would be no chunga and I would be able to worship the idol by myself.
So what you think in your mind, Baba hears and fulfills your wishes.It is not actually in the temple,you feel the presence of Baba as soon as you start your pilgrimage and you feel his presence throughout .He is with you,helping you and guiding you throughout.
ONLY YOU SHOULD HAVE FAITH. JAI BABA TARAKNATH.
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